How High Will You Climb For Good?

Fri, 2013-03-22 13:10
Grameen America Advisory Board Member, Baily Kempner, and her husband Nate are climbing for a cause. Support their fundraising campaign to the peaks of Alaska on crowdrise. On April 28th Nate and I head out on a 2-week expedition to Denali National Park in Alaska to attempt three different technical peaks offering a mix of ice, rock and snow climbing.  We will take a ski-plane flight onto the glacier on April 30 and will spend the next 11 days in one of two basecamps we’ll set up.  Each of these routes will require an almost 20-hour push from basecamp to the summit and back with 3,000 vertical feet of steep roped climbing along the way. 1)  How have you prepared for Denali? We’ve been thinking about this trip for 2 years (our dog’s name in “Denali”).  Last September, we started preparing and planning, have been training 5 or 6 days a week and climbing almost every weekend. This will be the most exciting and challenging trip we’ve attempted. 2)  What’s your fundraising goal? Our goal is to raise $60,000 ($1,000 for every hour we spend roped together on these routes). 3)  How can we support your expedition? Please feel free to share our crowdrise page with anyone you think might be interested in our causes and trip.  We’ll send around a photo-album when we return.  We are working on the logistics of distributing short messages to all of our supporters while we’re out there. 4)  Can you give us the play-by-play of your adventure? We’ve selected 5 potential peaks/routes in Denali National Park that match our ability and experience. We plan on attempting 3 of them and will adjust our objectives depending on weather and route conditions. From Root Canal Glacier basecamp:
  • Moose’s Tooth via Ham ‘n Eggs – a 12-24 hour climb with 2,900 feet of elevation gain.  We will face up to 80° ice and/or 5.9 rock climbing, depending on conditions.  Offers spectacular views of the Ruth Gorge, Denali, Mt Hunter, Mt Huntington and the Northern peaks.
  • Moose’s Tooth via Shaken not Stirred – also 12-24 hours and 3,100 vertical feet, but more technically demanding route that contains up to 90° ice and some over-hanging rock climbing. Highlight of the climb is a 500 foot section in the middle of the climb where the gulley narrows to two shoulder widths (and occasionally tigher) and contains short steep sections of ice.
From Denali basecamp:
  • Mini-Moonflower – An 11-19 hour climb of 2,000 vertical feet with sustained ice climbing from 50° to 85° in steepness.  This route will require a 2-3 hour approach (and return).
  • SW Ridge of Mt Francis – A true alpine climb of 3,600 feet of snow, ice, rock climbing and a rappel as part of the ascent.  The snow/ice is up to 60° steep and the rock climbing goes up to 5.8.  This route will take us 11-20 hours.
Kahiltna Queen – An 11-20 hour climb of 3,100 feet snow and ice climbing up to 60°.  This will require a 3-4 hour ski approach from our base camp

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